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One last suggestion. Buy some heavy duty tubes. The OEM tubes are very thin.
Was considering this - not as familiar with tubes except on road bicycles (grew up in Amsterdam so have done plenty of basic maintenance).

I may switch to a heavier carcass tire, but a heavier duty tube is also probably smart.
 
It's a good idea to break the bead at home before a trip. That way it will be easier if you have to do it on the road. Personally I carry a cell phone, slime, my breakdown card and a Spot. So far, I've been lucky though.
I recently learned that Slime makes punture sealer for tires with tubes. It is different than the tubeless Slime.
 
I recently learned that Slime makes punture sealer for tires with tubes. It is different than the tubeless Slime.
I'm pretty sure, if you read the container, you'll see that it says NOT FOR MOTORCYCLE TIRES, or similar.

I've been looking at Slime, and others, for use in our side-by-side we use around the farm.

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The standard tubes are better for road use.

A small compressor is priceless.

First get all the air out of the tube. Then take your new 8" c-clamps and break the bead. Be sure the broken bead side is pushed down hard as you take your bead pro's around the other half of the tire, you only need to take it half way off. Patch or replace your tube and re-seat your tire. If you can't feed the valve in the rim hole you can break the other side easily with your c clamps and a board on the rim. Attach the valve stem nut finger tight, all the way down the valve stem so you don't tear it. Inflate the tube slightly, just enough to hold a shape so it's harder to pinch. Use the c clamps to hold the tire deep in the rim on the valve side and use your bead pro's to pop the tire over the rim. Inflate tube to set bead and then release pressure fully and reinflate to full pressure. Tighten valve stem nut to snug with a wrench.

You can use water/other if you have any to help with the process.
 
"Slime Prevent & Repair Tube Type Tire Sealant
No more flats! tSlime's Prevent & Repair Innertube Sealant seeks out and instantly seals tread area punctures up to 1/8" (3mm) in innertubes. When a puncture occurs, Slime's patented sealant is carried directly to the source of the leak. The pressure of the escaping air forces the Fibro-Seal particles into the opening, where they build up and intertwine to form a long-lasting, flexible plug. Instantly, air loss is blocked and a flat tire is prevented. Top the tire off with your own air supply if needed.
Slime Prevent & Repair Tube Type Sealant is engineered for off-highway motorcycles, bicycles, ATVs, UTVs, utility equipment, etc. In tubed tires, regard the Slime seal in the same way as you would a patch: If you are content to ride a patched tube, then consider the Slime seal a long-term fix. Otherwise, treat the Slime seal like a temporary fix that will keep you on the move - until a tube replacement or permanent repair becomes a viable option.
Slime can be easily cleaned with cold water.
There are no glues, no latex and no adhesives in its formulation. As a preventative measure against flats, enjoy two years of flat protection.
Not designed for tires traveling highway speeds greater than 45 mph. Treats tread area punctures only.
Features:
  • Instantly seals punctures up to 1/8" (3mm)
  • Designed for tube type (TT) tire applications equipped with innertubes only
  • Engineered for tires traveling less than 45 mph
  • For off-highway motorcycles, bicycles, ATVs, UTVs, utility equipment, etc.
  • Non-toxic, non-hazardous, non-flammable and non-corrosive
  • Environmentally friendly and cleans up with water
  • Low freezing point of -35˚F (-37˚C) and a high separation point of 182˚F (82˚C)
  • Uses Fibro-Seal technology
  • Valve core removal tool included in the cap of the bottle
  • 1 Gallon format includes hand pump
  • May require additional air
 

FGrom Slime's website:
Tube Sealant - 16 oz. (Dirt Bike)
Default Title - $11.99 USD
Regular price$11.99
No more flats! Slime Tube Sealant seeks out and instantly seals punctures in your tubes up to 1/8" (3mm). Install in your bicycles, dirt bikes, wheelbarrows, riding mowers and more, and enjoy two years of continuous flat tire protection.
  • Instantly seals up to 1/8" (3mm) punctures
  • Seals punctures for up to 2 years
  • Stops slow leaks
  • Safe and easy
  • Great for use in: Bicycles, dirt bikes, wheelbarrows, jogging strollers and all other tires with tubes
 
Ride-On motorcycle sealant seems to be a better option than any of the Slime products.

Why use Ride-On tire sealant and balancing gel?
  • More safety: preventive protection against flat tires and blowouts
  • Better drivability: tires are balanced continuously
  • Easy to apply and remove from the tire
  • Works both in tube tires and tubeless tires
  • Unsightly wheel weights are no longer necessary
  • One application is enough to last the legal life of the tire
  • Effective at speeds up to 185 mph (307 km/h )
  • Will not interfere with the application of conventional tire plug and patch repairs
  • Contains corrosion inhibitors that protect tires and rims from rust and corrosion
 

Attachments

I have an Outex kit to install on my Transalp. I ran Outex on my Africa Twin Adventure Sports (same tire/wheel size) for 5 years with no problems whatsoever. I had no more air loss over time than with any tubed tire I have ever had. I do use a TPMS to monitor.
 
I’ve been prepping and outfitting my ‘24 TA all winter and I am almost ready to go for the spring/summer riding season. I am planning some long rides with some off the main roads by considerable distances (such as the Washington and Oregon BDR routes). Along with my tool kit is my tire repair kit from my previous bike, a dual sport with much smaller/thinner tires. The kit includes all that is needed to remove and repair or replace the tube, front or back, on the trail.
So jump to this past weekend when I set out to replace the tubes and tires on the TA. Part of the task was to ensure that my tool kit had the proper tools to complete the task, and that I could actually do it by myself. I was intending on doing it as if I were in the field as sort of a practice run. Well that came to a screeching halt when I could not even come close to getting the tire off the rim. I couldn’t even unseat the bead. I had a variety of spoons including the motion pro bead pro bead breaker. I tried soapy water, pounding the sidewall with a mallet, standing on it (I weigh 220 lbs). I could not get it to budge.
Shift in plan, I dropped the wheels and new tires and tubes at the dealer and they will install them easily (for a fee of course).
Now, I am stuck on the thought of what I am going to do when I get a puncture on the trail. I really don’t believe I can get the tire off the rim to repair/replace the tube unless a warm and/or worn tire comes off much easier than my factory installed Metzlers with 600 miles on them.
I know some have converted to tubeless. But even that does not solve all problems such as a cut or unseated tire. But tubeless tires are definitely easier for on-trail repairs of simple punctures. I have watched a few videos on converting to tubeless. I am not sold on it yet.
I have considered preventive measures which includes my upgrade to 4mm tubes. I have also considered a preventative sealant such as Slime or Ride-on, but I have not found anyone that regularly uses a preventative sealant including on this forum (one of my previous posts).
Just wondering if anyone has any other ideas I haven’t considered.
Thanks for reading
-Al
I believe most people who change from tubeless tires to tubed ones feel the same about "what if I puncture?"

It happens to me also, but over time I think about it less and less.

I have riden for more than 100.000km now on motorcycle (40.000km in Africa) and had one puncture up to now (in Africa, offcourse ;)) On that occasion was a big nail into the tubeless tire. Offcourse if what pierces stays on, you can pump air into the tire and ride to the shop, not possible in most tube punctures.

I have my TA since last November with 20.000km now, and have gone with it into some hard trails with no punctures so far. Some trails wrere very rocky.

You refer to thicker tubes, I believe it's not a good idea as those tubes are meant for offroad only, when you put it on tarmac they will overheat for sure, be aware of this please.

Conversion kits I prefer not to use them, as my feeling is that the chance of having issues with the sealing its actually higher than having a puncture istself.

Yes, if it happens and if you don't have the tools and knowledge to change the tube on the road its a huge pain, but for me I leave it as it is.
 
I believe most people who change from tubeless tires to tubed ones feel the same about "what if I puncture?"

It happens to me also, but over time I think about it less and less.

I have riden for more than 100.000km now on motorcycle (40.000km in Africa) and had one puncture up to now (in Africa, offcourse ;)) On that occasion was a big nail into the tubeless tire. Offcourse if what pierces stays on, you can pump air into the tire and ride to the shop, not possible in most tube punctures.

I have my TA since last November with 20.000km now, and have gone with it into some hard trails with no punctures so far. Some trails wrere very rocky.

You refer to thicker tubes, I believe it's not a good idea as those tubes are meant for offroad only, when you put it on tarmac they will overheat for sure, be aware of this please.

Conversion kits I prefer not to use them, as my feeling is that the chance of having issues with the sealing its actually higher than having a puncture istself.

Yes, if it happens and if you don't have the tools and knowledge to change the tube on the road its a huge pain, but for me I leave it as it is.
I agree, except to say - if I were to go tubeless it would be by replacing the wheels/rims entirely. But, is it worth the expense?

I've been riding for over 50 years and been lucky so far as I've never had a puncture on any of my motorcycles.
 
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