I have K-Tech's own version of fork valves in the front of mine and the difference is night and day. Along with the much stiffer springs (I'm 6'2"/250lb for reference) and the re-valved & resprung rear shock (also by K-Tech) the bike handles like a dream. So composed on the brakes, corner entry & exit, it's been worth every penny. My mate has a KTM 1290 Adventure S and can't keep up with me through the twisties! Mind you, at the first sight of a straight the orange rocket comes flying past...

 

at the first sight of a straight the orange rocket comes flying past.

Any monkey can hold the throttle open.

 

Yes, I have them in my TA. I still have the stock fork springs but just the valves have greatly improved the ride quality of the forks. Sharp hits of the front wheel are much more controlled, as is bottoming. Since I kept the stock springs the brake dive is the same, I may opt for straight rate springs in the future. As you said, a much more affordable option to a full cartridge kit, it's a good value for the resulting improvement.

 

Hello folks,
I am Rick. I desi the kit for the forks in February 2024 after doing ride testing on a customer bike. I kinda got hooked on this motorcycle so I bought one in September 2024 and I love it. I continue to refine options.
I appreciate you.

 

@NC Rick

Rick. Have you noticed the Transalp fork has considerable stiction? I was looking at sag on my bike and I found the fork to be very sticky. Lift up the front of the bike and gently release, and the bike settles. Give it a very slight push and it settles, what seemed like a surprising amount, more.

 

Oh man, sorry for the delay in seeing this. Work’s been busy (a good problem to have). On the Hondas and “stiction” (a proper technical term for static friction): it’s something I’ve always battled. You can’t eliminate it completely, but it can be minimized. Why does it matter? Because that extra force needed to overcome initial resistance directly affects ride quality and, over time, contributes to wear. The friction itself comes from parts rubbing together (obvious, I know, but worth spelling out). The main sources are the fork bushings: steel with a softer coating, topped with Teflon/PTFE for low friction. These bushings are partly immersed in fork oil.

• Inner bushing wraps around the chrome-plated fork tube and bears on the inside of the aluminum stanchion (outer tube clamped in the triples).
• Outer bushing sits in the stanchion just below the oil seal and wiper, retained by a washer.

That’s about as good as modern fork design gets. But seals themselves add friction—especially noticeable at rest and during direction changes. They need lubrication, yet a fresh seal often acts like a squeegee wiping the oil away. A coarser crosshatch grind on the chrome can actually help by holding more oil film. Seal lips also have hysteresis—they load differently depending on direction, which adds to friction. Beyond bushings and seals, sliding elements inside the cartridge—damper rods, pistons, and their wear bands—also contribute. Friction changes dynamically as the fork flexes under braking, cornering, and bumps. Installation matters too:

• Don’t overtighten the lower triple clamps (use spec torque).
• Make sure forks, clamps, and wheel are aligned.

Quick alignment tip: With the bike upright (not on the side stand), loosen the upper triple clamp, axle pinch screws, and even the fender bolts if needed. Apply the front brake and “jounce” the forks a few times so the tubes find their natural position. Then, while still upright, tighten the top triple clamp bolts to spec. Bounce again, then tighten the axle pinch bolts. Seal prep: At Cogent Dynamics, we partially pre-fill the oil seals (~40%) with a special low-friction, seal-safe grease. Dust seals get closer to 90%. This helps reduce that dry “squeegee” effect. Measuring stiction with sag: Compare the sag from “stuck down” vs “stuck up” (unloaded). About 10 mm difference is quite good; 25 mm is pretty poor. For high-performance builds, we can go further: optimizing surface finishes and even applying DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coatings to sliding parts. I hope this is helpful to you and others. I enjoy the social interaction with folks, particularly with the bikes I ride. somet I don’t get around enough I would like. I appreciate you all.

 

Oh man, sorry for the delay in seeing this. Work’s been busy (a good problem to have). On the Hondas and “stiction” (a proper technical term for static friction): it’s something I’ve always battled. You can’t eliminate it completely, but it can be minimized. Why does it matter? Because that extra force needed to overcome initial resistance directly affects ride quality and, over time, contributes to wear. The friction itself comes from parts rubbing together (obvious, I know, but worth spelling out). The main sources are the fork bushings: steel with a softer coating, topped with Teflon/PTFE for low friction. These bushings are partly immersed in fork oil.

• Inner bushing wraps around the chrome-plated fork tube and bears on the inside of the aluminum stanchion (outer tube clamped in the triples).
• Outer bushing sits in the stanchion just below the oil seal and wiper, retained by a washer.

That’s about as good as modern fork design gets. But seals themselves add friction—especially noticeable at rest and during direction changes. They need lubrication, yet a fresh seal often acts like a squeegee wiping the oil away. A coarser crosshatch grind on the chrome can actually help by holding more oil film. Seal lips also have hysteresis—they load differently depending on direction, which adds to friction. Beyond bushings and seals, sliding elements inside the cartridge—damper rods, pistons, and their wear bands—also contribute. Friction changes dynamically as the fork flexes under braking, cornering, and bumps. Installation matters too:

• Don’t overtighten the lower triple clamps (use spec torque).
• Make sure forks, clamps, and wheel are aligned.

Quick alignment tip: With the bike upright (not on the side stand), loosen the upper triple clamp, axle pinch screws, and even the fender bolts if needed. Apply the front brake and “jounce” the forks a few times so the tubes find their natural position. Then, while still upright, tighten the top triple clamp bolts to spec. Bounce again, then tighten the axle pinch bolts. Seal prep: At Cogent Dynamics, we partially pre-fill the oil seals (~40%) with a special low-friction, seal-safe grease. Dust seals get closer to 90%. This helps reduce that dry “squeegee” effect. Measuring stiction with sag: Compare the sag from “stuck down” vs “stuck up” (unloaded). About 10 mm difference is quite good; 25 mm is pretty poor. For high-performance builds, we can go further: optimizing surface finishes and even applying DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coatings to sliding parts. I hope this is helpful to you and others. I enjoy the social interaction with folks, particularly with the bikes I ride. somet I don’t get around enough I would like. I appreciate you all.

Thank you for taking the time for the detailed reply and explanation. Very much appreciated and helpful!

 

@NC Rick

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge ... well worth the wait.

 

Thank you! I like to help folks out. If it cools down some more l expect to ride a bit more.